Piere-Alexis Dumas:
爱马仕艺术总监
Hiliton McConnico:
装置艺术设计师
Pierre-Alexis Dumas
爱马仕制造第一条丝巾迄今已有七十年之久了。本次艺术展不仅仅为了纪念这段七十年的历史,更是为了和公众分享我们与丝绸之间的这份奇遇。在我们的奇遇中,艺术家和设计师把他们的理念与梦想化为缤纷的画面。他们用自己内心的“慧眼”观察某个主题,并将之阐述出来。而我们和爱马仕丝巾艺术总监Bali Barret的工作则是把他们的构图转为可供佩戴的美丽,可以这么说,我们是在丝绸上负责印刷画面的编辑。而你呢,Hilton,你是这些梦想的设计师。
It has been seventy years since Hermès made its first scarf. In addition to being an anniversary celebration, this exhibition also fulfils our desire to share our anventure with silk. To share our encounters with artists and designers who put their visions and dreams into images. They observe a subject with their inner eye and interpret it. Then we work with Bali Barret to make it such that their designs can be worn. We are publishers of images on silk. And you, Hilton, are a designer of dreams.
Hilton McConnico
我经常说,梦想往往能浇灌无用的东西。不过,在现实生活中,没有比梦想更实用的东西了。
I like to say that dreams feed on the useless, but, in reality, nothing is more useful than dreams.
P.A.D.
你最大的人格力量就是能保持对生活的快乐,能以幽默与童心看待事物。今天,在本次艺术展中,你用自己的想象力营造了爱马仕产品与参观者之间的艺术空间。在这个展览中,你新奇的想象和你为各个画面所精挑细选的丝巾,构成了未解之谜,不曾给出答案,却发人深思。
Your greatest strength is your ability to maintain a certain joie de vivre, to see things with the humour and joy of a child. Within the framework of this exhibition, your imagination has yet again filled the space between the Hermès object and the spectator. Your imagination and the scarves with which you chose to create your scenes push the mystery even further, without, however, providing a solution.
H.McC.
确实,我设计的出发点就是:所谓的答案是不存在的。虽然丝巾本身是这个谜的主角,但我也对之采用了“大隐隐于市”的隐身效果。
Yes, I created these scenes in such a way that there is in fact no solution, no scarves even, although the scarves do lie at the heart of the mystery.
P.A.D.
这次展览的第一个展品就是丝巾“途径巴黎”。丝巾的画面是一枚想象中的明信片。社会不同,文明不同,但教育往往都是通过游戏和猜谜来进行的。在这款丝巾里,构图设计并没有明示所有的一切。欣赏者必须走入它的故事,去破译它的含义。我非常喜欢那些不把所有一切说白的设计构图,要给想象留有空间。你的布展设计就宛如一个个画谜,令人着迷,能让欣赏者以爱马仕的方式活跃思维。
This exhibition opens with the scarf De Passage à Paris, which represents an imaginary postcard. In many societies and civilisations, learning occurs through games and enigmas… In this scarf, everything is draped in mystery. You must decipher it, enter into its story. I like it when our motifs don’t give everything away, when they leave something to their imagination. The scenes you have created are enigmatic, like puzzles. They are enchanting and make the mind wander, in the same way as Hermès.
H.McC.
自我上一次的丝巾艺术展览《如丝梦幻》举办至今,丝巾的发展确实很大,不仅仅是技术层面上的发展,有些款式的丝巾已经成为经典之作,有些则用令人惊讶的现代语汇重新阐述了爱马仕的某些传统表现符号。我特别要提到的是名为“马的惊幻”的丝巾,很容易让人联想到Jackson Pollock的风格。骏马的形象与画家个人的艺术宗旨融合在图案设计中,可谓是今日爱马仕的完美写照,大胆奇异,出乎想像。
Since my last exhibition, “Dreams woven with silk”, the scarves have really evolved, and not only technically speaking. Some are still great classic and others reinterpret the traditional codes of the House with amazing modernity. I’m actually thinking of Cheval surprise, which could easily be a Jackson Pollock. Two identities cohabitate in this motif. It is the perfect reflection of Hermès today. Unbelievably bold.
P.A.D.
不止是大胆,这是贴合时代的创作,是对现实的真实感受。每当我们设计新款丝巾时,我们的想法并不是要让他人惊讶,而是首先要能让我们自己惊喜,既要现代,又绝不抛弃过去,在各式各样的邂逅相遇中创作美丽的作品。
More than bold. It is a creation anchored in our time period, a statement about the present. When we create new scarves, the idea is not to shock, but rather to start out by surprising ourselves, to be modern without ignoring our past, to create very beautiful objects born of encounters.
2001年,在上海专卖店举行揭幕仪式时,我们就已经和舞蹈家黄豆豆有过合作了。在今年这个舞蹈之年里,我们更是希望能和他再次合作。同时,爱马仕还是杜维尔亚洲电影节的合作伙伴。去年,这个电影节的奖项颁给了年轻的女导演李玉。其实,早在电影奖项揭晓之前,也就是丝巾艺术展筹备之初,我们在上海的工作团队就已经提议由她来拍摄一部短片,并由黄豆豆主演。
When we opened our boutique in Shanghai in 2001, we had already collaborated with choreographer Huang Doudou. In 2007, the year of the dance, we wanted to work with him again. Independently of this desire, Hermès has been a partner of the Deauville Asian Film Festival for several years. Last year, the award went to young director Li Yu. Without knowing it, when we started working on this project, our Shanghai teams spontaneously suggested that she direct a film, which, in the end, featured Huang Doudou.
H.McC.
在本次展览中,我们在丝巾艺术展品“二重奏”的周围安排播放了一部艺术体操录像片。通过这个录像,我希望丝绸能够轻抚我们的肌肤,观众能够感受丝绸的性感。
In the exhibition, there is also a rhythmic gymnastics video projected next to the scarf En duo. In this video, I wanted the material to caress the skin and the viewer to feel the full sensuality of the silk.
P.A.D.
这个展览绝对不是在介绍爱马仕2007年的丝巾。通过不同的展品,我们奉献的是视觉体验,邀请观众去发现爱马仕的丝绸艺术。今天,中国已成为一个蓬勃发展的市场。到今年年底,我们在中国的专卖店计划开至九家。到了为大家揭开爱马仕神秘面纱的时候了。本次展览的宗旨就是介绍丝绸,介绍我们如何以独有的方法发展了这来自中国的丝线,表达我们对丝绸永恒的赞美。很多年来,我就一直想邀请中国艺术家为我们设计丝巾。在我上次访问上海期间,我对当代艺术家丁乙的作品一见钟情。我们邀请他来到巴黎,参观我们的创作室以及位于里昂的工坊。四个月之后,他为我们奉献了一款无与伦比的丝巾设计构图。
This exhibition is clearly not a presentation of our 2007 collection. Through its various settings, it is a visual experience and a discovery of the world of printed silk at Hermès. Today, China is a market in full growth. By the end of this year, we will have nine stores in this country. It was therefore important for us to unveil our House. To talk about silk and show how we’ve developed a technique and syntax that are proper to the House using a fibre native to this country. This exhibition shows our constant admiration and amazement when it comes to this material. For several years, I wanted to ask Chinese artists to create scarves. The last time I came to Shanghai, I instantly fell in love with the works of contemporary artist Ding Yi. So we invited him to Paris. He visited our creation studio, our workshops in Lyon and, four months later, he sent us an outstanding scarf design.
H.McC.
他的画作非常现代派,简直像是数码图像作品……
Yes, his painting is in fact very contemporary. It’s like a digital, pixeled image…
P.A.D.
或者说宛如十字绣法。当我们收到设计构图时,我完完全全地惊呆了。我们的绘图师和色彩师立刻竭尽全力地把艺术家的构思展现到丝巾画面上。今天,这款丝巾成为了上海展览的标志。从我们创作第一方丝巾起,所有的作品都是无数次邂逅相遇的成果,它们证明了爱马仕是多么热爱交流。
Or cross-stitching. I was literally dumbfounded when we received it. Our designers and colorists worked on turning it into a motif, and now it is the symbol of this exhibition in Shanghai. Since our very first scarf, these pieces of silk have been the fruit of encounters, perfectly reflecting Hermès’ openness to exchange.